December 3, 2013 - Chile by the Numbers
6:00 am OAK to LAX. Almost didn't make it because the security line was so long
10:00 am LAX to MEX. Not ideal. Grouchy older lady on one side, teenage boy with intense body odor on the other, seats that don't recline. But I got to watch a Tom Cruise action movie and powered through.
3:30 - 11:55 pm local time. Longest layover ever, Mexico City.
12:00 am MEX to SCL. Nighttime flight, managed minor dozing, but got the whole row to ourselves, win!
2:00 pm SCL to Punta Arenas.
At 6:00 pm local time, we cruised above the Straight of Magellan. The sea was a vast gray expanse peaked white with chop. The plane bucked and shuddered in the wind, dropping to land in sharp jerks that left our stomachs high in the air.
Finally, finally, we arrived. We're in Chile.
- 4 - hours of sleep before my 4:30 am alarm and 4:45 am cab ride to the airport
- 4 - hours of fitful dozing airplane sleep until 10:30 pm the following day
- 18 - hours of flying time between Oakland and Punta Arenas
- 13 - hours of airport time between Oakland and Punta Arenas
- 7000 - miles traveled in 32 hours
- 3 - customs and immigration forms needing to be re-written before being allowed into the country
6:00 am OAK to LAX. Almost didn't make it because the security line was so long
10:00 am LAX to MEX. Not ideal. Grouchy older lady on one side, teenage boy with intense body odor on the other, seats that don't recline. But I got to watch a Tom Cruise action movie and powered through.
3:30 - 11:55 pm local time. Longest layover ever, Mexico City.
12:00 am MEX to SCL. Nighttime flight, managed minor dozing, but got the whole row to ourselves, win!
2:00 pm SCL to Punta Arenas.
At 6:00 pm local time, we cruised above the Straight of Magellan. The sea was a vast gray expanse peaked white with chop. The plane bucked and shuddered in the wind, dropping to land in sharp jerks that left our stomachs high in the air.
Finally, finally, we arrived. We're in Chile.
December 4, 2013
Penguins!
They waddle and gurgle and laze and bark. They slip and slide on the rocks. (If it had been me, I'd have looked around after each awkward fall to see who was looking - but the penguins took their lack of grace in stride.)
I saw a baby under its parent's belly, just a ball of fluff, fur shivering in the wind.
Ungainly on the ground, silly on the rocky shore, in danger but fishing like pros in the cold, cold Magellan Straight.
Worth the 2-hour ferry ride for an hour on shore.
Daylight!
Dusk starts after 10:00 pm these days, with light in the sky until 11:00. Full sun shines through the morning window by 5:00 am. My body is shifting toward evenings. We eat dinner at 8:00 or 9:00 in the communal area of the inn, cooking simple pasta in the guest kitchen and drinking lovely, unexpectedly cheap wine with other guests until well past my normal bedtime. The light in the sky makes all the difference.
Tomorrow, we leave for Puerto Natales, staging area for Torres del Paine.
Penguins!
They waddle and gurgle and laze and bark. They slip and slide on the rocks. (If it had been me, I'd have looked around after each awkward fall to see who was looking - but the penguins took their lack of grace in stride.)
I saw a baby under its parent's belly, just a ball of fluff, fur shivering in the wind.
Ungainly on the ground, silly on the rocky shore, in danger but fishing like pros in the cold, cold Magellan Straight.
Worth the 2-hour ferry ride for an hour on shore.
Daylight!
Dusk starts after 10:00 pm these days, with light in the sky until 11:00. Full sun shines through the morning window by 5:00 am. My body is shifting toward evenings. We eat dinner at 8:00 or 9:00 in the communal area of the inn, cooking simple pasta in the guest kitchen and drinking lovely, unexpectedly cheap wine with other guests until well past my normal bedtime. The light in the sky makes all the difference.
Tomorrow, we leave for Puerto Natales, staging area for Torres del Paine.
December 8, 2013 - Torres Trek - Day 1
Itinerary: Catamaran across Lago Pehoe, 11km hike along Lago Grey to Glaciar Grey.
Guanacos! Local wildlife in the llama family seen from the bus into the park.
Waterfall! Waiting for the catamaran, I made a quick trip up to a ridge to view the most spectacular waterfall.
Crystal blue lakes! Something to do with the silt from the glaciers creates an amazing color.
Lush valleys! Purple flowers, yellow flowers, red flowers, green shrubs, rushing streams.
Mountains! Shrouded in clouds, shyly peaking through, the ridge of mountains is a constant companion.
Icebergs! Calved from the glacier, they drift slowly south.
Glacier!
If John Muir had seen Patagonia, he may have abandoned Yosemite for this vast southern expanse. I've never exclaimed so much during a hike. Glorious. My feet are bruised from bearing the weight of my pack. My legs are limp noodles. Trekking is hard work.
Itinerary: Catamaran across Lago Pehoe, 11km hike along Lago Grey to Glaciar Grey.
Guanacos! Local wildlife in the llama family seen from the bus into the park.
Waterfall! Waiting for the catamaran, I made a quick trip up to a ridge to view the most spectacular waterfall.
Crystal blue lakes! Something to do with the silt from the glaciers creates an amazing color.
Lush valleys! Purple flowers, yellow flowers, red flowers, green shrubs, rushing streams.
Mountains! Shrouded in clouds, shyly peaking through, the ridge of mountains is a constant companion.
Icebergs! Calved from the glacier, they drift slowly south.
Glacier!
If John Muir had seen Patagonia, he may have abandoned Yosemite for this vast southern expanse. I've never exclaimed so much during a hike. Glorious. My feet are bruised from bearing the weight of my pack. My legs are limp noodles. Trekking is hard work.
December 9, 2013 - Torres Trek - Day 2
Itinerary: Glaciar Grey!
Today, we trekked on the ice. Glaciar Grey is a finger of the Southern Ice Fields, 3rd largest field in the world, after Antartica and Greenland. We took a boat to the rocky island abutting the glacier and hiked up for an hour to reach the edge of the ice. We each received a helmet, harness, and set of crampons and had a brief walking lesson. It was scary at first, more intense than I had expected, but soon we were trudging along, seeing the sights of the glacier. I almost fell into a ravine, tripping over my own pant leg, but the guide caught my harness. It wouldn't be a vacation without at least one embarrassing moment with me on all fours.
Some things I learned:
The cloud hanging above the glacier is static, a product of the glacier's evaporation.
Rocks and silt blown onto the glacier from the surrounding mountains retain the heat from the sun and melt the ice, creating crystal blue cones filled with water. As they link with others, they can form rivers and crevasses. The dirt on the glacier creates amazing beauty.
The glacier is moving. It recedes about 1 meter per week.
A huge outcropping of rock moved from within the glacier (where it was called an erratic rock or lunatic rock) to the outer edge. It is now an island, water on all sides - one side frozen.
The strata of rock in these mountains surrounding me go in crazy directions. Upheaval after upheaval has shaped this landscape, massive though it is, solid though it appears. There's no such thing as permanence.
Itinerary: Glaciar Grey!
Today, we trekked on the ice. Glaciar Grey is a finger of the Southern Ice Fields, 3rd largest field in the world, after Antartica and Greenland. We took a boat to the rocky island abutting the glacier and hiked up for an hour to reach the edge of the ice. We each received a helmet, harness, and set of crampons and had a brief walking lesson. It was scary at first, more intense than I had expected, but soon we were trudging along, seeing the sights of the glacier. I almost fell into a ravine, tripping over my own pant leg, but the guide caught my harness. It wouldn't be a vacation without at least one embarrassing moment with me on all fours.
Some things I learned:
The cloud hanging above the glacier is static, a product of the glacier's evaporation.
Rocks and silt blown onto the glacier from the surrounding mountains retain the heat from the sun and melt the ice, creating crystal blue cones filled with water. As they link with others, they can form rivers and crevasses. The dirt on the glacier creates amazing beauty.
The glacier is moving. It recedes about 1 meter per week.
A huge outcropping of rock moved from within the glacier (where it was called an erratic rock or lunatic rock) to the outer edge. It is now an island, water on all sides - one side frozen.
The strata of rock in these mountains surrounding me go in crazy directions. Upheaval after upheaval has shaped this landscape, massive though it is, solid though it appears. There's no such thing as permanence.
December 10, 2013 - Torres Trek - Day 3
Itinerary: Campamento Grey to Campamento Italiano via Campamento Pehoe. 18.6km, 6.5 hours walking plus a 40 minute lunch break.
Distinguishing features of the day:
WIND! A wind storm arrived at Grey last night and got stronger throughout the day. Trekking poles got a new use as props to help withstand the buffeting gusts of about 40mph. We walked along beautiful Lago Skottsberg and saw the wind swirl the warer into arching plumes of mist reaching 20 feet inthe air.
SCENERY! Not just beautiful, but changing. We retraced our steps from Grey to our starting point, but the views on the return seemed fresh and new. After lunch, we set out on a different route that took us past windswept valleys, windswept lake-sides, and windswept forests. And ahead, a constant: Los Cuernos.
FOOT PAIN! My pack might weigh 70 lbs. From the way the bottom of my feet feel, it's possible. As we approached Italiano, each footfall agonized, particularly as leg fatigue made my steps unsteady. Just before camp, we reached the rushing Rio del Frances and treated our feet to a glacial dip. When you can look upstream and see the ice cap on the mountain, you know that water will be chilly.
RUSTIC! We stayed at Grey for 2 nights and were told by all that it is the most plush of all the refugios. We relaxed each evening on leather couches by the fireplace after our hot showers. Italiano is a free site, and you get what you pay for. Toilets with no paper, logs and rocks in the open-air cooking hut, and the rushing waters of Rio del Frances to drink.
Itinerary: Campamento Grey to Campamento Italiano via Campamento Pehoe. 18.6km, 6.5 hours walking plus a 40 minute lunch break.
Distinguishing features of the day:
WIND! A wind storm arrived at Grey last night and got stronger throughout the day. Trekking poles got a new use as props to help withstand the buffeting gusts of about 40mph. We walked along beautiful Lago Skottsberg and saw the wind swirl the warer into arching plumes of mist reaching 20 feet inthe air.
SCENERY! Not just beautiful, but changing. We retraced our steps from Grey to our starting point, but the views on the return seemed fresh and new. After lunch, we set out on a different route that took us past windswept valleys, windswept lake-sides, and windswept forests. And ahead, a constant: Los Cuernos.
FOOT PAIN! My pack might weigh 70 lbs. From the way the bottom of my feet feel, it's possible. As we approached Italiano, each footfall agonized, particularly as leg fatigue made my steps unsteady. Just before camp, we reached the rushing Rio del Frances and treated our feet to a glacial dip. When you can look upstream and see the ice cap on the mountain, you know that water will be chilly.
RUSTIC! We stayed at Grey for 2 nights and were told by all that it is the most plush of all the refugios. We relaxed each evening on leather couches by the fireplace after our hot showers. Italiano is a free site, and you get what you pay for. Toilets with no paper, logs and rocks in the open-air cooking hut, and the rushing waters of Rio del Frances to drink.
December 11, 2013 - Torres Trek - Day 4
Itinerary: Campamento Italiano to Campamento Britanico and back (sans packs), then on to Campamento Cuernos. 17km.
Hiking Valle del Frances without packs was pure pleasure. Trees, a rushing river, glacial boulders, and mountain views filled the morning. Maneuvering along rock slides was draining, but I felt light on my feet without the pack.
After cooking lunch back at Campamento Italiano, we set out on the 2-hour (5km) walk to Campamento Cuernos. This section of trail was my least favorite of the trip so far. Grasping shrubs narrowed the path and caught at my trekking poles with every step. Small, rolling rocks coating the trail made each step a treacherous, ankle-turning hazard. The mental energy needed to maintain balance and calm made me loopy with fatigue. One high point: constant views of the crystal turquoise Lago Nordernskjold, and finally, finally, soaking my feet in its refreshing waters.
Itinerary: Campamento Italiano to Campamento Britanico and back (sans packs), then on to Campamento Cuernos. 17km.
Hiking Valle del Frances without packs was pure pleasure. Trees, a rushing river, glacial boulders, and mountain views filled the morning. Maneuvering along rock slides was draining, but I felt light on my feet without the pack.
After cooking lunch back at Campamento Italiano, we set out on the 2-hour (5km) walk to Campamento Cuernos. This section of trail was my least favorite of the trip so far. Grasping shrubs narrowed the path and caught at my trekking poles with every step. Small, rolling rocks coating the trail made each step a treacherous, ankle-turning hazard. The mental energy needed to maintain balance and calm made me loopy with fatigue. One high point: constant views of the crystal turquoise Lago Nordernskjold, and finally, finally, soaking my feet in its refreshing waters.
December 12, 2013 - Torres Trek - Day 5
Itinerary: Campamento Cuernos to Campamento Torres. 6.5 hours walking plus a 2.5-hour break at Refugio Chileno.
Today was our longest day on the trail. Since yesterday was so hard (for me), we initially changed our plans, intending to stop at Chileno instead of continuing the extra 1.5 hours uphill to Campamento Torres. But once we started walking, I knew we would make it to Torres. We hustled through some rollers along a lake, the dirt path so much easier to traverse than yesterday's gravel. We had a rough stretch around noon as hunger and monotonous views dragged our spirits down. No cooking is allowed outside the campsites, but a few spoonfuls of peanut butter saved the day.
We carried on, ascending rapidly before turning north into a spectacular gorge. Far below, Rio Ascencio flowed along a rapid and winding path. We launched ourselves toward it, and toward Refugio Chileno. Lunch! (Soup mix, with the last of our pasta shells, plus rehydrated mashed potatoes mixed with powdered cheese - gourmet goodness!) Unwilling to leave the cozy warmth of the refugio, we indulged in a $12 snack of 2 sodas and some chocolate. Restored, we continued on to Campamento Torres and our final night on the trail.
Itinerary: Campamento Cuernos to Campamento Torres. 6.5 hours walking plus a 2.5-hour break at Refugio Chileno.
Today was our longest day on the trail. Since yesterday was so hard (for me), we initially changed our plans, intending to stop at Chileno instead of continuing the extra 1.5 hours uphill to Campamento Torres. But once we started walking, I knew we would make it to Torres. We hustled through some rollers along a lake, the dirt path so much easier to traverse than yesterday's gravel. We had a rough stretch around noon as hunger and monotonous views dragged our spirits down. No cooking is allowed outside the campsites, but a few spoonfuls of peanut butter saved the day.
We carried on, ascending rapidly before turning north into a spectacular gorge. Far below, Rio Ascencio flowed along a rapid and winding path. We launched ourselves toward it, and toward Refugio Chileno. Lunch! (Soup mix, with the last of our pasta shells, plus rehydrated mashed potatoes mixed with powdered cheese - gourmet goodness!) Unwilling to leave the cozy warmth of the refugio, we indulged in a $12 snack of 2 sodas and some chocolate. Restored, we continued on to Campamento Torres and our final night on the trail.
December 13, 2013 - Torres Trek - Day 6
Itinerary: Ascend to Torres Base Camp for dawn viewing, then descend out of the park.
Last night was a bit cold. Rain turned to snow flurries as we set up camp, the wind howling through the trees. I wore the following to bed:
We woke at 5:30 am. Most of the camp rose at 3:30 am to catch the light of the rising sun against the towers, but neither Krista nor I felt much need for that. The wet weather guaranteed a sun-less dawn. An hour's hike up up up, and we reached the mirador. A lovely mountain lake sat below the Torres, which were shrouded and indistinguishable. Down again.
The rain grew harder as we broke camp. It was a mad scramble, shoving dirty gear into drenched packs. We hoofed it down the mountainside with sideways rain soaking our rears. At last, we arrived at Hotel Las Torres, an oasis that sheltered us until it was time to shuttle back to Puerto Natales.
Itinerary: Ascend to Torres Base Camp for dawn viewing, then descend out of the park.
Last night was a bit cold. Rain turned to snow flurries as we set up camp, the wind howling through the trees. I wore the following to bed:
- Yoga pants
- Long underwear
- Long sleeved shirt
- Short sleeved shirt
- Fleece jacket
- Puffy vest
- Neck warmer
- Socks
- Hat
- 1 hand warmer, moved to various spots tbroughout the night
We woke at 5:30 am. Most of the camp rose at 3:30 am to catch the light of the rising sun against the towers, but neither Krista nor I felt much need for that. The wet weather guaranteed a sun-less dawn. An hour's hike up up up, and we reached the mirador. A lovely mountain lake sat below the Torres, which were shrouded and indistinguishable. Down again.
The rain grew harder as we broke camp. It was a mad scramble, shoving dirty gear into drenched packs. We hoofed it down the mountainside with sideways rain soaking our rears. At last, we arrived at Hotel Las Torres, an oasis that sheltered us until it was time to shuttle back to Puerto Natales.
More Numbers:
Reflections:
Visitors walk the trail in both directions. I was happy we chose to walk west to east. Though we only saw beauty, the more mind-blowing views presented themselves in the early days, when I was fresh and eager to be amazed. By days 5 and 6, my mind was too tired to be blown, and the scenery accomodated, offering gentler, less dramatic images.
This is what moved me at Torres del Paine. These are the memories I'll hold.
- 6 days, 5 nights
- Several pounds of dehydrated black bean soup, split pea soup, lentil soup, and mashed potatoes, plus instant oatmeal, 7/8-jar of peanut butter, and a pound of trail mix
- 72 kilometers walked
- 80+ lbs gear carried (or so it felt)
- Inumerable spectacular views
Reflections:
Visitors walk the trail in both directions. I was happy we chose to walk west to east. Though we only saw beauty, the more mind-blowing views presented themselves in the early days, when I was fresh and eager to be amazed. By days 5 and 6, my mind was too tired to be blown, and the scenery accomodated, offering gentler, less dramatic images.
- I almost cried viewing the waterfall at Pudeto.
- The Catamaran across Lago Pehoe was phenomenal.
- The walk up Lago Grey enchanted, with wildflowers in bloom, snow-capped mountains peeking through the mist, the lake dotted with icebergs drifting slowly south.
- Exploring the glacier was miraculous, the breadth and scope of it putting life into perspective (plus, crampons! ice axe!).
- Lago Nordernskjold was bluer than any blue I've ever seen (in a teal sort of way).
- The trees and river and mountain views of the Valle del Frances made me nostalgic for my childhood playtime in New England.
- I hugged massive glacial boulders, congratulating them on how well they survived their earth-shattering trauma, staying whole, staying strong, persevering.
This is what moved me at Torres del Paine. These are the memories I'll hold.